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Ten Things to Remember in Japan
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Shoes off at the entrance. Virtually everywhere you go 'the entrance'
is lower than the house. The area just inside the door is called the
genkan, and that's where you take your shoes off, step up into the
house/inn itself, and put teh slippers on that are waiting for you.
(Usually plastic, too small, and with no traction.)
When you get to your room, which is tatami, leave your slippers at the
door and go in in your stocking feet.
When you use the toilet- which is usually communal in an inn- leave
your slippers outside the door, put the toilet slippers on that are just
inside the door, and repeat the process when leaving.
Note something about public washrooms in Japan- they don't have toilet
paper. Department stores are the exception. Carry a bunch of those little
packages of kleenex everyone hands out in front of the train stations.
That's what it's for.
Note also that washrooms everywhere, practically, don't have paper
towels. (Or hot water.) Carry a handkerchief for drying your hands. Do not
carry a handkerchief for blowing your nose, because that disgusts people.
Use tissues.
Japanese baths are usually communal in inns, but not usually mixed. If
the inn has a rotenburo (outdoor bath- highly recommended) it often has a
sign that can be put up saying 'In Use by Women' meaning everyone else
stay away. Learn the kanji for 'man' and 'woman' so you know which bath to
go to. The rotenburo are usually mixed, or at least mixable.
Bath etiquette: well, having undressed and stowed your clothes in a basket
(usual for inns) or a locker (usual for bathhouses- sento), you take your
bath stuff- washcloth, soap, shampoo, nailbrush, whatever- into the
washing area. Some people let the washcloth modestly dangle over their
genital areas in a gesture towards concealment, some don't. A matter of
taste. You deposit everything in front of a tap, sit on the floor
(preferably kneeling if you're a woman, but it's permissable to sit with
your legs bent to the side. Or sit on one of the low stools provided. If
you're alone, do whatever you please, but you're usually not alone.
Take a wash bowl, fill it with water, pour it over yourself. Try not to
splash. It's inconsiderate of the people around you. Wash thoroughly,
working up a nice lather. It's not the being clean so much as the being
seen to be clean that's prized. Rinse it all off. Thoroughly. Rinse it
again. The Japanese are watching in apprehension to see if you're going
to go soapy into the bath, while you of course would never consider doing
such a thing. If you have long hair, you're advised to pin it up for the
bath, or to bind it back with one of those small handtowels that are
useless for anything else. When you're washed and rinsed, you're allowed
in the bath. Inns being places where everyone's on holiday and usually
relaxed, I've always just gone into whatever bath/ pool is there. Sentos
being an everyday place, it's sometimes a good idea to start by going into
a bath where no-one else is. Then if they don't mind gaijin they'll come
in too. And if they do they won't. You can get into a bath with people in
it if you don't mind the possibility of everyone else getting out. Don't
barge into the bath- sort of sidle in gently. This is a necessity because
baths are hot as the hinges of hell usually and if you just step in you'll
usually be very very sorry.
The basic rule for baths- wash first outside. No soap and no washcloths in
the water itself.
At inns they give you yukata to wear (light kimono style robes made of
cotton.) You can walk around the inn in your yukata. It counts as being
dressed. In some hotspring places you can walk around the town in your
yukata. The rule on yukata is that the left side goes over the right,
opposite to what we think of as natural. The other way is how corpses are
dressed, which is why you don't do it.
Meals are often served communally at inns, in the dining room. You go
to the table where the name (usually) of you room is, though sometime s
it's just sit where you like. To avoid scandalizing people, don't sit
cross-legged if you're a woman.
The very polite way to eat is to take a little rice first, then a sip of
soup, then whatever else you like. You're supposed to go back to the rice
between other foods. A little fish, some rice, a little vegetable, some
rice, a mouthful of salad, some rice. I don't see people sticking to this
rule that much, but I mention it. Same with the 'pickles are eaten last'
thing. The pickles are wonderful and in my experience get eaten all
through the meal.
Don't stick your chopsticks upright in the ricebowl, supposing you're
tempted to. It's how rice is offered to the dead. If it's a Japanese style
meal, don't put soy sauce on the rice. It's vulgar, like dumping salt on a
meal the cook has specially seasoned.
Be warned that a Japanese style breakfast is probably something you don't
want. Grilled fish, miso soup, rice-- I know it sounds nice, but then you
get to those raw quail eggs.....
If you're in a city, go to a coffeshop for a morning set, which gives you
thick toast, butter, salad, and usually a cold boiled egg. (Sorry.) Plus
coffee. The plus coffee is the draw, because you get a meal for what a
cup alone often costs elsewhere. My breakfast of choice, I say without
shame, was Macdonald's. Better than what they do here, especially the
pancakes.
Note also that ko-hi- doesn't automatically mean hot coffee. You're
advised to specify whether you want hotto or aisu. Aisu is served year
round and is marvellous.
Don't look people straight in the eye, especially not in the
countryside. You can do it in Osaka, but anywhere else it makes everyone
hideously uncomfortable. Looking somewhere between the nose and the mouth
most of the time and glancing at the eyes periodically works best.
If you're going to sit next to someone on a train, hesitate first, make
a little bow, then sit down. That way you're not barging into their space.
It's rude to walk in front of someone but often necessary, so do the hand
thing- bend arm at the elbow and hold hand out in front of you, slightly
tilted up, to indicate that you're passing through. Men sometimes jerk
repeatedly from the elbow, which looks odd to me, but never mind.
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Inns hang out the bedding for you, but if you stay in someone's house
or in a place of your own, the futons are supposed to be aired regularly-
daily is usual- hung out for a few hours then taken in before the
afternoon heat or evening dew especially can get to them. The only season
you can safely leave home with your futons hanging out is on sunny days in
mid-winter. Any other season of the year, the sun is likely to turn to
rain before a few hours have passed.
Generally: don't point at people; don't hand people money directly;
say thank you and sorry a lot (the same word will do for both- sumimasen);
be patient; don't stand too close unless you have no choice. (Japanese
body space is actually larger than western body space, when left to its
own devices.) Bring pictures of home. Bring a little present when you go
to someone's house and give it to them as you enter. Never call anyone
anata when you speak or try to speak Japanese. It's offensive most of the
time except in certain circumstances, and you have to be Japanese to know
what those circumstances are.
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